Time was, lighthouses served as safety beacons. Seafarers relied on them to avoid becoming shipwrecked, broke, and possibly dead. Then GPS came along. Now, lighthouses serve the same role as statues — ridiculously often photographed, untouchable homages to bygone eras that attract thousands of tourists each year. This one, off Nubble Point in York, Maine, where I spent five days last week, also happens to be surrounded by lobster traps. Yum.