Along the northern, or Atlantic coast of Spain, surfers the world over have flocked like seagulls to one spot in particular: a peeling left point break called Mundaka. But up and down the coast, an untold number of other breaks offer world-class waves of their own. We lucked into one outside a village called Deba on a windy, cold and drizzly day. The waves were hardly as epic as they get in, say, December, when the right point pumps barrels into the bay, but the provocative graffiti on the wall lining the beach made up for it. In case you didn’t already know, many residents of the Basque Country are not always tickled to be Spanish citizens.